Salmon and Tamarind Curry - My Favourite Nigel Slater Recipe

For the first time, my food writing has been published in a national newspaper! OK, it's only one sentence, but it's a start. This month the highly respected Observer Food Monthly celebrates 20 years of its favourite columnist, Nigel Slater. Readers of the magazine, yours truly amongst them, have picked out their favourite of Nigel's recipes for the delectation of the masses.

My favourite recipe is 'a mild and fruity curry of salmon'. By way of a recipe headnote they have included my words "tamarind doesn't taste quite like anything else, so this recipe is an easy route to an unusual flavour". Harsh editing. But the tamarind thing is basically the crux of it. Here's the rest of what I had to say:

Thoroughly absorbed into our everyday repertoire! Most of the ingredients are items I keep stocked in the cupboard and freezer. Tamarind doesn't taste quite like anything else; it is a very easy route to an unusual flavour (fruity is the perfect word, well done Nigel). And no offence to Nigel, but I do think the roasted squash makes an excellent addition. Its texture perfectly complements that of the salmon.

Tamarind is a large, pod-like fruit with edible flesh. Though the tamarind tree is native to tropical Africa, the flavour can be found in cuisines all over the world, including Indian, South-East Asian, Mexican and the Caribbean. You may recognise it as the kick in Worcestershire sauce. Over here you can find tamarind in the shops (including supermarkets) as a little pot of thick, black, sour paste, which goes a long way and keeps for ever.

So, to the store cupboard! I buy cumin and coriander seeds in huge bags from my Asian grocer - if you like curry then this is much better value than those fiddly little jars. At Christmas last year I bought a whole salmon (on seasonal offer) and stored it as steaks in my freezer* - again, buying in bulk is cheaper, and they're in the freezer when you fancy them. Tinned tomatoes work just as well as fresh here (just omit the water). A dollop of natural yoghurt sets it all off nicely, especially if you got over-enthusiastic with the chillies.

Nigel Slater's opinion is that recipes should be used as inspiration, not a set of rigid rules (which is probably why I like his writing so much), and so I think he would approve of my additions. As I mentioned, roasted squash is excellent here. Chunk it, slather it in oil and salt and roast until tender (20 mins or so), then add with the coconut milk. Aubergine also makes a wonderful addition - ideas on cooking methods to follow shortly... However you make it, this is a recipe you'll really want in your repertoire.

* An aside, which I do need to get off my chest. I used the head and tail bits to make a stock. Apparently, fish eyes make a stock bitter. I have never squirmed so much as when I had to gauge out those eyes - you really have to rip them out - I had to hold it down in the sink such that I couldn't see. I thought I was fine with bits of dead animal, but this really was my limit.